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"O my God, fill my soul with holy joy, courage and
strength to serve You. Enkindle Your love in me and then walk
with me along the next stretch of road before me."
St. Teresa Benedicta of the Cross (Edith Stein) (1891-1942)
Catholic convert, Carmelite Nun executed/murdered by the Nazis
at Auschwitz
Did You Know . . ."In 1836 Alabama became the first state in the United
States to declare Christmas a legal holiday." (Alabama Pioneers) Alabama has the third most timberland acreage in the 48 contiguous states, behind only Georgia and Oregon. Of timberland acreage, 85% is owned by non-industrial private landowners. Forests cover nearly two-thirds of Alabama (USA). Some common types of trees include cedar, cypress, hemlock, pine, and oak. (AFC) Alabama has an Alligator hunting season. (http://www.outdooralabama.com/alligator-hunting-season-alabama)
Normandy (northern region in France) has 29 military cemeteries (American, British, Canadian, German, and Polish). (Baedeker, France 164) Austria has a network of over 31,000 miles of footpaths. (Michelin, Austria 348) |
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The Deutsches Museum (München) is one of the largest in the world, covering an area of over 592,000 square feet and displaying over 18,000 exhibits. (Michelin, Germany 250)
Venice, Italy is built on 117 islands. The city has 400 bridges and 150 canals. (Michelin, Italy 250)
Garmisch-Partenkirchen hosted the Winter Olympics in 1936.
In Austria, there are more than 13,600 miles of downhill slopes, 7,400 miles of cross-country trails, and at least 400 ski-schools (Michelin, Austria 15).
The Volksmarch (walking or biking) is popular not only in Germany, but also in Austria, Belgium, the Czech Republic, France, Hungary, Italy, Luxembourg, the Netherlands, Switzerland, and the United Kingdom.
The highest mountain in the Alps and in Europe is Mont Blanc (France, Italy), rising to over 15,700 feet.
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Over
the past decade or so, we have taken a number of short trips
(not to mention a long one home from Germany). One of our
favorite recurring trips is to northern Alabama. ... Rolling hills, lakes, gorgeous scenery and a peaceful Shrine. Shrine of the Most Blessed Sacrament Hanceville, Alabama |
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The unexpected just keeps on happening! Thanks to some "creative
decision-making" in the ranks of 1-1 Aviation, Thos and I were
able to take an entire month off (a Godsend) - which we, of
course, used to consume use-or-loose leave time. So, off to
gorgeous Alpine region we went :-) (It was the best vacation
yet!!)
On May 12th, Ginny and I set out on the first leg of our journey
- our Black Forest adventure. We drove to the quaint town of
Triberg, located in the northern section of the Black Forest, and
in the middle of “Clock Country”.
As well as their world-famous clocks, Triberg has Germany's
largest waterfall, the Triberg Falls (162 meters). (FYI: Two
electrical producing turbines are located on the Gutach/Triberg
Falls, and these turbines provide power for the town of Triberg.)
The walk up the heavily wooded mountain, along the “stepped”
falls, was relatively short and steep. Of course, we hiked
straight up without a problem. While not very physically
challenging, the walk was romantic - and a nice change of pace.
Since we were in “Clock Country”, we decided to get not just one
clock, but two. First, we selected a handsome mantle clock for the
fireplace of our home (when we have a home with a fireplace!). Of
course, the second selection we made was a majestic, Black Forest
grandfather clock. (By the way, both of them look and sound
wonderful.)
Since we were anxious to continue our journey into the Alps, we
turned in early that evening. Early the next morning, we proceeded
to Interlaken, Switzerland.
The drive into Switzerland was both relaxing and breathtaking. As
we approached our destination, the scenery became even more
unbelievable - all this beauty in such a "small" place. As we
snapped photos, we exclaimed that photos of the landscape could
not do it justice. ... Of course, the best was yet to come.
We drove along the north shore of the Brienzer See to Interlaken.
After getting settled in at a cozy “bed and breakfast”, we
immediately started to explore the area. Our first stop was
Trümmelbach.
Trümmelbach can be best described as an ”intermountain waterfall”
that has chiseled a path with its millions of gallons of glacial
water (glacial melt originating in the Eiger, Monk, and Jungfrau
mountains). Along the natural path of waterfalls and pools were
man-made paths, allowing tourists to get a “close-up” view. The
thunderous roar of water could be felt in the rocky walls of the
sculpted trail. As we moved vertically, we caught glimpses of the
rushing water, cooling ourselves in the frigid mist that filled
the air.
After pausing for numerous photos, we reluctantly headed back down
to the foot of the mountain. We took a short drive to Grindelwald,
where we stood at the foot of the Eiger Mountain’s north face. ...
We would return to this spot on our way back to Germany.
The next morning (the 15th), we packed up our car, and planned the
next leg of our journey to Chamonix, France. We selected a route
through the Swiss Alps into France and through a mountain pass
behind Mount Blanc. The drive was (once again) breathtaking:
Alpine roads, hairpin turns, thousand-foot drop-offs, mountain
peaks reaching to the sky. The therapeutic drive (as we like to
call it!) was as enjoyable as the scenery itself. As we approached
France, we began to feel a childlike excitement; we were about to
hike on the highest mountain in the Alps :-)
By late afternoon, we were closing in on our destination. A few
kilometers from Chamonix, we pulled over to get still photos of
the gorgeous scenery. We were awestruck by the patiently chiseled
crevasses to our left, partially filled with pale blue glacial
ice, and giving way to rocky peaks covered with patches of
glistening snow and ice. Unable to contain our excitement, we
hurried back to our car, and drove on to our hotel in Chamonix.
After a quick check-in, we stepped onto the room’s balcony to get
our first photos of the massive Mount Blanc. The scene was surreal
- glacial ice pouring down, seemingly touching the small-town
skyline. Above the busy, touristy streets was an ultimate
expression of the awesome power and timelessness of natural
forces.
The next morning, we took a short walk to the Aiguille Du Midi
cable car. After a brief wait, we embarked on a vertical ride to
the top of the Mount Blanc sister peak, rising to 12,645 feet
(over 3,000 feet below Mount Blanc). The total ascent,
accomplished via two cable cars, introduced us both to more
breathtaking views of the valley and surrounding peaks.
After an hour of “taking in” the scenery, snapping photos, and
observing climbers, we embarked on the next portion of our
journey. We boarded the third car, one that traversed the Mer de
Glace (the sea of ice, which is 2 kilometers wide at its widest
point, and up to 400 meters thick). The Helbronner cable car
slowly moved horizontally over the glacier, at about 300 feet
above the snow and ice. Below, we admired a group of hikers in
snow shoes, and to our left, more rock climbers.
After a brief stay at the cable station on the “Italian side” of
the glacier, we made our memorable return trip, relishing the
timeless beauty that surrounded us. After a small, tasty (albeit
late) lunch, we returned to our hotel in the valley.
On the 17th of May, Ginny and I arose early for a quick breakfast.
After we stopped and picked up a good backpack for me, we hopped
in our car and headed for the Parc De Merlet.
The Parc, a refuge for animals that were caught in an avalanche,
hurt in auto accidents, or hurt in hunting incidents, offers
visitors some easier hiking and astounding views of Mont Blanc and
adjacent peaks. As we began our trekking, our eyes scanned the
majestic mountains across the valley. As we moved closer to the
steep slopes, we were again overwhelmed by the massiveness of the
surrounding terrain. As we snapped photos, we felt as though we
could reach and touch the snowcapped peaks, peaks that were
actually miles away. As scattered clouds moved in, we continued
our short hike around the Parc.
As we walked, we observed human-tolerant Lamas, Fallow Deer,
Stambecco Delle Alpi and other animals. We snapped more photos of
the animals, but were unable to stop admiring the scenery. After a
few hours of walking, we stopped for a salad at the cafe/gift
shop. There, we decided to travel to the other side of the valley
for a closer look!
We drove to the foot of the glacier path (a glacier we had admired
from the Parc). We looked up, then walked up a very steep path,
culminating at a man-made observatory that was constructed to view
the Glacier Moraine and the head ice. A French couple helped us
take some photos and told us about a Princess who died on her way
to Geneva (an airplane crashed into the upper mountainous area
some 40 years earlier). Pieces of the place were visible in the
glacier, and other pieces were on display at the observatory.
As we stood on the viewing porch (built into a rock face at least
400 feet above the moraine) a few “small sections” of ice broke
free from the glacier face. An almost haunting grinding of ice and
rock echoed through the valley. We took more photos as we casually
leaned on the wood rail. More clouds moved in, and the rain
started to trickle through the leaves. We quickly hiked back down
to our car, and then, headed back to Chamonix.
The following morning, we slept in (we were in charge :-) ). We
spent the first part of the day exploring the local area. In the
early afternoon, we anxiously walked to the rivers edge, where we
joined a small group of tourists for white-water rafting.
The Arve River, which runs through Chamonix, is a river of cold,
gray, glacial water. Our guide provided us with wet suits (to keep
us arm) and helmets. After a quick change of attire, we proceeded
to the rafts, where we were instructed on basic rafting techniques
and safety. (This would be Ginny’s first rafting experience.)
One by one, we climbed over the rail on the bank and carefully
stepped into the raft. One of our first lessons in the raft: How
to help your buddy back into the raft if he/she accidentally falls
out! After hearing our guide’s soon-to-be familiar phrase “I
propose a new experience”, we paired up, and began practicing our
basic rescue techniques. Our instructor went first and I (Thos)
quickly pulled him back into the raft. Next, I went in, and Ginny
followed my example exactly ... except for one small detail. She
forgot to get out of my way, and I ended up on top of her! (Lucky
me :-) ) Ginny promptly hopped into the chilly water, and I pulled
her back in.
Once everyone had an opportunity to try both the rescuer and
“person to be rescued” roles, we move on to our next “new
experience”: Floating feet first on our backs down the river. We
all assumed our protective posture in the water, and let go!The
stream swiftly took us for a raftless ride.
Satisfied that we all mastered this exercise, we all climbed back
into the boat. One by one, each occupant had to walk around the
top edge of the raft. This was by far the most awkward of tasks,
and some fell helplessly into the water. After a few tense
moments, all of us were back in the raft, ready for the next “new
experience”.
Next, we were instructed to stand up and jump, all the while
helping to paddle and steer the raft. (For sure, a comical sight
for observers on the bank!) As we approached more lively portions
of the river, we all sat down and manuevered the raft as
instructed. After a completely enjoyable (albeit wet) ride through
mild rapids, the white-water rafting excursion was over. We all
hopped into a van for a quick ride back to the town.
The following day (the 19th) we started early on our hike up to
the Mer de Glace Morraine. After a slight detour (on the wrong
path!) and a little unplanned canyoning adventure, we were able to
migrate back to the original path on the opposite side of a steep
gorge. We slowly hiked up the well-maintained path, a path
constructed adjacent to the cog train tracks. As we carefully made
our way up the mountain, we were (again) awestruck by the timeless
beauty that surrounded us.
After a few hours of walking, we began to feel the altitude. After
resting briefly, we cautiously maneuvered over snow-covered
portions of the trail, trail sections that ran along steep
drop-offs and cliffs. After four hours, our destination was
clearly visible. We slowly stepped through and over large
boulders, making our way to the rock steps leading to the cog
train station and restaurant.
After taking a short rest and a few photos, we walked down to the
man-made caves; caves carved into the actual glacier ice. We
admired the many rooms and exhibits designed by the locals.
Exhausted and hungry, we made our way back to the cog train
station and caught the next train back to Chamonix.
On the 21st, we took on the north side of the Glacier Bossons. We
parked our car near the Mont Blanc tunnel, and began our ascent to
the glacier morraine (at about 1856 meters). The steep hike took
about 2.5 hours, culminating at a lookout point at the edge of the
glacier. After snapping more photos, we grabbed our poles, and
began the arduous trek over the gravel and rocks of the morraine.
As we moved closer to the glacier ice, we began to move on all
fours until we reached a very large, house-sized rock, with a flat
upper surface. We stopped and rested on top of the rock, taking in
the magnificent scenery. After taking full advantage of the photo
opportunities, we began our descent back down the mountain.
The following day, we took our final hike, this time up opposite
side of the valley on a trail culminating at La Flagere (a cable
car stop). We hiked up the challenging trail in about 2 hours.
When we reached the top, were were able to witness the grandiose
peaks surrounding Mont Blanc from five miles (across the valley);
an unbelievable and gorgeous site! The next day, we would begin
our voyage home.
Early on the 24th, we checked out of our hotel, and took a
leisurely drive back to Grindlewald, Switzerland. After arriving,
we checked into a stylish hotel at the foot of the Eiger, ate a
delicious dinner at a rustic local restaurant, and turned in early
:-)
The next morning, we began our adventure by taking a cog train up
to Junfraujoch (Top of Europe). The train winded up through the
north face of the Eiger, and stopped briefly at observation
windows built into the the rock and overlooking the actual face of
the mountain. At the top of the railway (between the Mönch (4099
meters) and Jungfrau (4158 meters)), we stopped at the final
destination - a partially suspended observatory and visitor
center. On a clear day, the entire face of the Eiger is visible,
but our view was obscured by low clouds and snow.
We visited the observatory, weather station, and ice palace, and
then walked out onto the glacier. We spent the entire day roaming
around, hoping it would clear, but it did not. We caught the last
train down, and turned in for the night.
The next day, the weather was even worse, with very low ceilings.
So, Ginny and I spent the day working out and enjoying the private
sauna - a lazy “weather day”. We decided to take off for Zermatt
the next morning.
The morning of the 28th, we packed up and headed for the
Lötschbergtunnel (a “car train” the takes passenger and their
vehicle through a long tunnel). We then made our way to the city
of Täsch, found a cozy room, and settled in for the night.
The next morning, we caught an early train to Zermatt (car traffic
is restricted to special electric vehicles within the city
limits), and we spent the day exploring, hiking, and taking
numerous photos.
The day began rainy and overcast, but the weather soon cleared. We
caught yet another cog train up to Gornergratt, and spent the next
few hours hiking around the area, and taking photos of Monte Rosa,
area glaciers, and, of course, the Matterhorn.
After a brief lunch, we took the cog train back down the mountain,
and made our way to the Matterhorn cable car. We took a memorable
cable car trip up to a cable station adjacent to the Matterhorn.
We spent over an hour at the station, wondering around, relaxing,
and taking more photos of the surrounding mountains.
The following day, we packed up our car, and began the long drive
home to Katterbach. This was one of our busiest, most memorable
and enjoyable trips yet!
After three years of planning, then canceling, then planning
again, Ginny and I finally got in our car and headed for France.
Ginny had lived in France before as a student (Toulon) and
traveled to all parts of the country, but this was a first for me.
(Flying over the country en route to Kosovo really doesn't count!)
We left for Rouen, France on the third of April. Now, I had never
driven in France, but found that the toll roads (Autoroute) are
well maintained, which allows for efficient rates of travel :-)
(Traveling on European roads at 80-110 mph is typical.) We drove
past Paris and made our 700 mile trip to Rouen in a little over
seven hours.
For those who have not been to France, Paris is pretty much center
in the Northern portion of the country, and Rouen is about 60
miles to the west/northwest - about halfway to the Normandy
beaches. (Normandy is a northern region of France.) We entered
Rouen (population 105,000), stopped to pick up a city map, and
navigated through the maze of streets to our quaint hotel.
First, A Little History Lesson
Here comes Hitler - it’s 1939 and he rolls across the Polish
Army (they brought horses to a tank fight). The Poles lose
decisively, opening the doorway to the rest of Europe. The
Blitzkrieg is moving at full speed; France and Britain declare
war on Germany.
By June (1940), France capitulates to the Nazis. The British
Expeditionary Force escapes at Dunkirk. A “puppet government” is
set up and the French Government in exile is established in
Britain under General Charles de Gaulle. (Still four years until
D-day.)
A year and half later, after the bombing of Pearl Harbor, the
United States enters the war on the side of the England (Great
Britain), France, and Russia . In the years to follow, the
Germans fortify the French coastline, building the “Atlantic
Wall” (as it would come to be known). The Germans also invade
Russia, and the battle of Midway is fought. The Fortress of
Britain withstands the aerial assaults of Germany so
successfully that a planned German invasion of Britain would be
canceled. The attempt on Hitler’s life fails, and six million
Jews are murdered.
It is now June 1944, and the Allies have been massing forces for
an invasion of France in Britain. The Axis and Allies both knew
that to invade France at a deep salt water port would be
necessary - the Germans fortify French ports against such an
event. The Allies have a solution: Build ports, float them
across the channel, and build a port where one does not exist.
Two “Mulberry Harbors” are built, one for Omaha Beach (US
Sector, city of Saint- Laurent) and one for Gold Beach (British
Sector, Arromanches). Old ships form a breakwater for all five
beaches, and the two harbors take form.
The invasion has to commence; the Russians are screaming for the
opening of a second front against Germany. The preparation for
the invasion is mind boggling. The Nazis have been beaten out of
Africa, Sicily and Italy, and the industrial complex of Germany
has been pounded endlessly into ineffectiveness.
The air power of the Allies has been used to gain air
superiority deep into France. Bombings of railroad,
communications, and high speed avenues of approaches to the
Normandy coastline have isolated the invasion beaches.
Everything is scheduled to begin on the 5th of June, but bad
weather moves in and General Eisenhower decides to delay 24
hours. The invasion must proceed, or be delayed again for a
month (until the moon and tides are “right”). The weather
forecaster says that the winds and seas would calm on the
morning of the 6th and stay calm for about thirty-six hours -
the Allies have their window.
Previous landing attempts had failed miserably, losing almost
5,000 men. (The Germans had beat the Allies back into the ocean
a year earlier.) Ships are, nevertheless, launched toward the
Normandy beaches. General Eisenhower, at 060415ZJun1944 orders
the execution of Operation Overlord. He then sits down and
writes the apology for its failure.
The spearhead of a 3 million soldier force leaves to invade
France, a cross channel attack, which had only been done once
before in history (in the tenth century). In the cold dark night
of the 5th, 7,000 vessels, 1,000 airplanes, and hundreds of
gliders carrying some 200,000 soldiers, assemble east of Britain
in the English Channel. The vessels muster into the “Beach
Assault” formation and move out into the “moonless” night.
Waiting on the other side of the channel is a foe, secure in
place, strong and willing to fight. In a few hours two of the
mightiest armies ever formed, would meet head on. One would push
the other out of place; either the Germans would be moved toward
Berlin or the Allies back into the sea.
The allies assault France in depth - first, paratroopers are
dropped into place to prevent access to the beaches and secure
bridges that would be needed for the upcoming breakout. Navy
UDTs clear the beaches of as many mines as possible and at 0700
a US Ranger Battalion climbs Point de Hoc to destroy the German
guns that could range to the beach landing force. Unknown to the
Rangers, the guns had been moved inland, and by the next day
only 90 of 225 are still alive as they fought to deny the
Germans this ground.
By the end of 6June 1944, US, British and Canadian forces land
on a 40 kilometer beach head. Thousands die - thousands more are
wounded. The youth of these nations spill their blood on the
beaches of France against a tyrant. The Battle of Normandy would
rage for 77 days - the fight toward Berlin would rage for 11
months. At a cost of some 180,000 dead, the Allies would beat
the Germans out of Normandy. (German casualties: 650,000 dead or
wounded by the end of the fight for Normandy.)
To stand on the beaches, look at the terrain, feel the sting of
the channel wind - one realizes that these events shaped our
world. Ginny and I walked among the graves of the known and the
unknown, awestruck by the courage and integrity of the Allied
soldiers (warriors). It brings to mind not only admiration and
respect, but two words from the movie “Saving Private Ryan” - the
captain with his dying breath said to Pvt. Ryan: ”Earn This”!
These soldiers are heroes! If you know one, go thank them for
their effort, because we owe them the world. They bought it with
blood.
At the end of touring the beaches, Ginny and I returned to Rouen
for the night. Back safe and sound, we cuddled up for a good night
sleep :-)
On the morning of the 5th, we got up intent on exploring Rouen.
This city is old (many building date back 1,000 years) and it is
the capital of the Normandy Province. The city was virtually
demolished in W.W.II - its cathedrals sustained severe damage.
Nevertheless, the people of Rouen painstakingly rebuilt the entire
city - an effort that lasted decades.
Today, the city is flourishing, with a population that exceeds
100,000 people. Since it is located on the Seine River, it remains
an important port city. Furthermore, it is renowned as a city of
museums - a cultural wellspring that displays the rich history of
the region. For example, we went to see where Saint Joan of Arc
was held during her interrogation for Heresy. We saw where she was
burnt at the stake, as well as the unique church that memorializes
her suffering. We also explored much of the “old city”, including
the Cathedral of Our Lady of Rouen (where the tomb of the heart of
Richard Lion-heart , King of England is located). Although our
time in Rouen was short, our experience of its character and
charm, as well its historical presence, made a lasting impression.
On the 6th, we were up early, anxiously moving towards Paris. It
was a very short trip from Rouen and we arrived in central Paris
without a problem. After getting settled in our hotel, we had the
whole afternoon and evening to begin our Paris adventure. We had a
quick lunch and headed for the Eiffel Tower which, due to
excellent planning, was just around the corner!
First, a little background on the Eiffel Tower. It was built for
the 1889 World’s Fair. The elite of Paris were against its
construction and it was almost torn down in the early 1900’s.
Nevertheless, it survived such opposition because of its
usefulness as a radio relay tower. (The 7000 ton wonder stands 358
meters tall and is held together by a couple million rivets.)
Today, the majestic Tower overlooks one of the most romantic areas
of this magical city. We went up the tower (by elevator) to the
very top to get a good look around. (We came back a few days later
for a “night view” of the city.) After we filled our digital
camera’s memory to capacity, we made our way down the hundreds of
steps to the bottom. We spent the rest of that pleasant afternoon
walking down the promenade and around the neighborhood. We stopped
for a delicious dinner, and then returned to the Eiffel Tower for
another glimpse, only to be surprised by a sparkling display of
lights. (Small lights were mounted every few feet on each section
of the tower, and in the evening, they lit it up like a giant
Christmas tree.) A perfect ending to a perfect day!
We began the next day (the 7th) with a “traditional” Parisian
breakfast (pastries and strong coffee). We then headed to the
nearest Metro (subway) office to get a three-day, all points pass.
(FYI: The Metro system was first built in 1900. It has three
levels (one on the street, two beneath), and has 15 lines with 200
kilometers of track.) For about $35 each, we obtained these passes
for all of Paris’ public transportation - no headaches, no parking
problems, no getting terribly lost. It worked out magnificently!
Our first stop for the day was the Sacre Coeur (Sacred Heart)
Basilica. We approached the large, white church from the back, and
stopped to watch the artists (at the Place du Tertre) create their
masterpieces. As we continued up the steep streets and rounded the
corner, the 83 meter dome seemed to leap before our eyes. As we
made our way to the front of the Basilica, we were again awestruck
by the beauty of this church, which was surrounded by a cloudless,
blue sky. We turned our backs for a moment to get another look at
the massive city (the church is atop a hill that allows one to
overlook all of Paris). We spent the morning in and around the
Basilica, and then returned (with souvenirs in hand) to our hotel.
After a quick “lunch”, we headed for the Louvre museum.
The Louvre Museum, of course, is a world renowned art museum. One
could spend an entire week at the Louvre, and still not see
everything. (It is truly “the attic” of France.) We planned to
“take in” as much as we could - in just one afternoon! We decided
to postpone our visit, and instead walked down the famous
Champs-Elysées (since it was a gorgeous, sunny day).
The walk from the Louvre through the Jardin des Tuileries, onto
the Champs-Elysées, then to the Arc de Triumph is no little
stroll. At about 15 kilometers, it is more like a hike! As we
turned our backs on the glass Pyramide (museum entrance) in the
courtyard of the Louvre, our eyes fixed on the Arc de Triumphe du
Carrousel - the beginning point of our walk.
As we walked, we enjoyed not only the beautiful, sculpted paths,
but saw other notable landmarks and buildings. We circumvented the
Place de la Concorde, which marks the place where over 1300 people
were guillotined (to include Marie-Antoinette, Robespierre, and
Danton). Looking to our right, we saw yet another large Cathedral,
Eglise de la Madeleine. From there, we wove our way through the
large crowd of shoppers, stopping occasionally at a shop - which
often was merely a doorway into a mall of shops. By 4 pm, footsore
and hungry, we decided to duck into a local theater for some
not-so-healthy munchies and a movie (The Hurricane with French
subtitles). Rested, we then maneuvered our way to the Arch de
Triumph, which is surrounded by the ultimate traffic circle -
where 12 major avenues meet. This was something to behold.
The Arch de Triumph is the largest arch of its kind in the world,
standing 49 meters high, 45 meters wide, and 22 meters deep. At
the center of the Arch, the eternal flame for the Unknowns burns
at the Tomb of the Unknown. Furthermore, on November 11 of each
year, the French pay respects to the Unknowns in a National
Ceremony at the Arch.
After taking a short break under the Arch, we continued on to
Notre Dame (a short trip via the Metro). As we approached the
cathedral from the west, we were able to admire the 230 foot
“incomplete towers”, which is home for the cathedral’s
thirteen-ton bell. Notre Dame, with its centuries of history, was
a majestic and inspirational sight. We patiently entered the
chapel behind a crowd of tourists. The massive structure, with its
29 chapels, seemed even more enormous on the inside. We noticed
that Stations of the Cross were about to begin, so we made our way
to the remaining empty chairs.
During the service, we were pleasantly surprised to learn that
pieces of the actual Crown of Thorns and Cross were present. (The
relics were brought to France in the thirteenth century by Saint
Louis, King of France.) Although we did not plan the events of
that day, it was truly one of the more memorable and spiritual
days of our tip to Paris.
After the service at Notre Dame, we headed towards Saint Chapel.
After a quick look at the Chapel, we headed down to the Metro. We
had one more stop to make - La Defense.
La Defense is a modern arch built out of glass and aluminum. It
houses the headquarters of the French Defense, quite similar to
our Pentagon. After we watched the colorful sunset displayed
beautifully in the reflective exterior of the Arch, these two
exhausted adventurers decided to head back to our hotel.
The next morning, after breakfast, we hopped on a train and headed
to Versailles. After the short trip, we quickly walked to the
gates of Versailles, and then carefully traversed the cobblestone
walkway leading up to the impressive palace.
Versailles is extravagant and massive. Its construction began in
about 1624 and additions to or renovations continue to this day
(now, mostly renovations). The palace has state rooms, king’s and
queen’s apartments, king and queen private rooms, a theater, and a
chapel. Room after room are (amazingly) decorated with gold,
marble, tapestry, and paintings.
The palace itself could occupy an entire day of any tourists’
itineraries ... we spent a few hours. It was another gorgeous day,
so we opted to take in the beauty of the palace grounds.
The grounds are immaculately kept. Outside the palace is a “Grand
Canal” (3.5 Kilometers long) and a “Petite Canal” (about 1.5
Kilometers) that form the shape of a Latin Cross. There is a
walkway (path) around the entire canal to allow visitors to see
the grounds, several fountains, and the beautiful gardens. The
Trianon (a smaller palace) and the queen’s private house are
located on the property as well.
We walked for hours around the entire canal, stopping briefly for
a delicious lunch. As the day came to a close, we slowly walked
backed to the train station for our return trip to Paris.
The morning of the 9th (our final, full day in Paris) we awoke
early and headed to the Louvre. Although we spent only half the
day in the museum, we were able to experience and enjoy statues,
paintings, and artifacts from around the world. We clearly
understood why the Louvre is a must-see attraction.
Footsore from walking and standing on marble floors in the Louvre,
we decided to return again to Notre Dame, this time for Mass.
After mass, we made our way back to the Eiffel Tower (to get a
glimpse of Paris at night from “high up”). After snapping a few
photos, we stopped at our favorite Parisian restaurant for dinner.
Unbelievably, our first visit to Paris (together) was coming to a
close.
Early the next morning, we packed up the Del Sol, and cruised back
to Katterbach. This was easily one of the best trips we have
taken, and we vowed to return again soon.
Questions and/or comments are welcome!
The second half of our vacation was quite an adventure. We drove down to the Lake Chiemsee Campgrounds so that Ginny could experience her first European camping trip. From there, we prepared for our "major" hike. What an experience!
On the morning after our arrival, we finished organizing our backpacks and set out toward the Königssee. We parked at the foot of the Wimbachklamm Trail and hiked 10 kilometers to the boat landings on the lake (Königssee) - a pleasant walk on a warm, sunny day. The boat trip took us lengthwise across the lake - some eight kilometers - to Sallet. After arriving at Sallet, we took a short hike to the Obersee, where we had a relaxing lunch under the high noon sun. (Little did we realize this would be the beginning of a very challenging day!)
The Obersee is a small lake south of the Königssee, about a 15 minute hike from the Sallet landing. The north end of the lake is a level approach and the east side of the lake can be walked all the way around. But the west side is a shear rock wall over a mile high. The water - glacier blue, deep, and cool.
Our planned hike was enthusiastic. Ginny and I would hike up the west side of the Königssee, and through a mountain pass at about 1780 meters. We would then connect with a trail that would lead us to the Wimbachklamm, and, from there, guide us back to the car. The trip was about 35 kilometers (we usually do 20K hike in about four hours). We had eight hours of sunlight left, and we were going to go for it.
The first climb up to the mountain pass was spectacular, but very demanding and exhausting. Fortunately, we were on the shady side of the mountain. It took us four hours to complete the main ascent - an ascent on a trail with steep drop-offs and wooden ladders. To make matters interesting, Ginny and I both ran out of water about two hours into the trip (and water was at least a few hours away). We were not too wise to allow that to happen. In any case, the view of the Königssee was worth the trip.
By the time we completed the primary ascent, we had gone from an elevation of 600 meters to just under 1800 meters. The area was very cool and, surprisingly, heavily vegetated (for that elevation). We started to make our way to the Wimbachklamm. Both of us feeling the elevation and the thinness of the air, our pace slowed. We expected the terrain to be pretty easy - it was not.
In the Alps (or any mountains, for that matter), as the sun sets, the earth begins to cool, and storms can develop very rapidly. Although the storms may be isolated or small (small as storms go), they can, nevertheless, be quite enthusiastic. As we began the first major descent on a seemingly endless, rocky, switchback trail, we noticed the lightening. We were very fortunate to be on the leeward side of the mountain - for the most part, we listened to the storms as they built up into active cells. It helped to motivate our descent back to the lake. (By this time, we had decided to return to the Königssee - a trail that would be a little more forgiving - we hoped!)
As we traversed around more mountains, darkness began to hinder our hike. Although we were exhausted and thirsty, we were determined to reach St. Bartholomä (chapel) on the Königssee. As we approached another series of switchbacks, the sea came into view - we were thankful, to say the least! The lightning continued, as if to light our way. We could hear the rush of a waterfall - almost more than either of us could take. As we approached the bottom, our pace became more of a jog, until we reached the shore. Never has lake water tasted so good! We drank, sitting on the shore with our feet soaking in the cold, clear water. The lightening continued, revealing the sheer rock walls of the surrounding mountains. We sat peacefully, grateful that the hike was behind us.
We continued to St. Bartholomä where we were greeted by some friendly locals. They were kind enough to escort us to an Alpine hut, where we could sleep in comfort for a mere 30DM. By midnight, we were cuddled up under warm wool blankets. Although we didn't complete the planned hike, we certainly felt accomplishment - this was by far our most difficult hike.
The next day, we took the first boat back to the north end of the lake, and hiked back to the car. We learned important lessons - lessons that will definitely help us on future hikes.
Hi there! Ginny and I are at it again (hiking, that is :-) ).
Our vacation began on the 27th of July. We stayed at a quaint hotel near Lake Chiemsee in southern Germany, and from there, we took day trips into the Alpine region. (This was also our first real test for some new equipment: Camelbaks, trekking poles, and super-duper hiking boots!)
The first day of hiking began in the little town of Brannenburg (on the Wendlesteinbahn). First, we caught the train to the top of the mountain - a Cog wheel train. (It was the first of its kind built in Germany. The construction lasted two years from 1910-1912, had a crew of over eight hundred workers and consumed over 77,000 pounds of explosives.) The route for this train is a little more than 7.5 KM long and it takes about 55 minutes to ascend the 1838 meter Wendelstein mountain.
When we reached the top, we ventured up to the observatory (about a twenty minute walk), took some photos (see our Digital Photo Album), and then had some lunch before beginning the four-hour hike down the mountain.
The mountain has about 20 trails on it - we decided to take trail 11. The top third of this trail was very Alpine, well above the tree line, steep, rocky, and loose. Nevertheless, we were able to walk the whole way - no climbing. Once we made it down to the tree line, the walking, although very steep, was quite easy. The trail followed a mountain stream, with several waterfalls along the way. Often, the edge of the trail had a significant drop-off, which was quite exhilarating. In any case, we had a leisurely walk - even soaked our feet in the ice-cold mountain stream. (We are already planning a return trip to this region of Germany!)
An interesting note - this mountain is approximately 128 meters higher than the Tegelberg (one of our hikes last summer).
Our second hike (day two) was much shorter. After some "minor surgery" on Ginny's foot, (the new boots did not fit quite right!) she could walk with soft shoes. Our trip took us to the Königssee (King's Lake). This lake is awesome! It is, of course, an alpine lake fed by the spring melts. The lake is about eight kilometers long by maybe two kilometers at its widest point. The western edge of the lake is mostly sheer cliffs that are a couple thousand feet high. On the eastern shore, there is a three-kilometer trail that can be walked and climbed, even though this trail is not maintained. (There are, however, many well-maintained trails, for every skill level.) Ginny and I took a short hike on the eastern shore, to a little waterfall - we definitely took it easy. Generally, the area around Berchtesgaden is very "touristy", but beautiful nonetheless.
On day three, we searched out a more challenging trail - a trail that would allow soft shoes, but still get us into the Alps. Thanks to Rita and Jeff, we found the perfect hike (in the book they gave us for a wedding present). The Wimbachtal - an awesome, well-maintained, and very steep hiking trail. Ginny and I went up to the Wimbachgrieshütte which is in a glacier pass at an elevation of 1327 meters. (See the Digital Postcard.) The trail scenery was gorgeous, lined with mountains that are easily 1500-2000 meters higher than the pass. We've decided to go back there next week, and hike all the way to the Königssee (St. Bartholoma chapel). We believe that we could finish the hike in 11-12 hours, go through a pass that is at 2200+ meters, and cover at least 35 kilometers through the Alps. We cannot wait to get started!
That's it for now. More highlights to come!!
(Jan 1998) Last month, we took our vacation /birthday/Christmas trip in two parts; the first in Garmisch and the second at Lake Chiemsee. On the 10th, we drove down to Garmisch. We stayed at the Sonnenbichl Hotel, a very old, classy, 5 star hotel. (We thoroughly enjoyed all the amenities - an excellent choice for this special trip.) Our primary objective for this trip - outdoor recreation. Of course, the cold, wet, snowy winter weather got us. Nevertheless, we took a peaceful hike up the back of the Zugspitze. The scenery was breathtaking - the forest covered in about fifteen inches of snow. After the long hike, we enjoyed a romantic dinner at one of the local restaurants. (Since it was the middle of the week, we had the restaurant to ourselves. The service was great!!)
The following day, we drove to the Schloß Linderhof. This is a miniature of Versailles (near Paris, France). In comparison, it is very small, but still very elegant - loaded with gold plating, tapestries, chandeliers, porcelain, marble. We both walked away with the impression that someone had too much money and time on their hands. (This was the first time Ginny had been there and the second for Thos. He had previously visited this place with Mercy and John when they were here in 1993.)
On our last full day in Garmisch, we went up to Lake Eibsee (1000 meters above sea level), which is nestled in the mountains at the foot of the Zugspitze . The lake was not frozen, so the gypsum blue-green water and snow covered evergreen forest were an awesome sight. We hiked around a little to try out our new boots (Christmas presents to each other). And of course, we took plenty of photos!
The second part of our trip - Lake Chiemsee for about four days. Lake Chiemsee is located east of München (on the way to Salzburg). This lake has 82 km of surface area, and two islands (Herreninsel and Frueninsel). It is another beautiful area with so many activities to offer. We settled in, and rested for our guided tour of the Salt Mines (the next day).
On our first full day, we accompanied a tour to Berchtesgaden. In this area, there are Salt Mines, which were opened in the 16th century and are still in operation today. Tours are arranged, and include everything from taste testing the salt, to sliding down long wood slides. (We loved this part!!) It was interesting to see how much effort goes into processing the salt (mining it from under the mountains).
We also went to the bunker complex where Time Life's Man of the Year for 1936, Adolf Hitler, killed himself in 1945. This bunker complex was built into the foot of a mountain - the same mountain that the famous "Eagle's Nest" sits on. (The English, in 1943, sent 100 Lancasters to bomb the Nest, and because of how well the bunkers were placed, the damage was insignificant.) Most of the areas within the bunkers are sealed up, but there are guided tours through some of them - tours that leave quite an impression. (The actual Nest was not accessible due to "excessive snow". Therefore, we have a hiking trip for the spring time!)
On our last full day of the trip, we went skiing on a mountain on the Austria/Germany border. Ginny had not been on skis for about 15 years, and I hadn't in about 3 years. So, it was quite interesting. Aside from the occasional "creative maneuvers" from Ginny, the ski trip was very enjoyable - and exhausting! (For those of you who have never been skiing with Thos - before you do, prepare yourself for an adventure!!)
We arrived back in Katterbach on the 17th of December. As always,
the trip was too short. In any case, we had a wonderful time
together - it was just what we needed!
The following morning, we stopped first at the AFRC (Armed Forces Recreation Center), purchased two detailed hiking maps, and headed for the Skistadion (Olympic Ski stadium). Our first hike had begun.
The first part of our hike was through a gorge; one with step rock walls surrounding a small river (the Partnach River). This cave-like gorge was very impressive, as was the toll trail that was chiseled out of the cliffs. The sound of the gray, glacial river was so loud at times that we had to yell in order to be heard. As we proceeded, we took many photographs, and decided that a return trip during the winter was a definite plan! (We've been told that the ice formations are phenomenal.)
After the gorge we continued to follow the Partnach River. The trail became a road of hard pack stone (one that could accommodate the mountain bikers). We continued through the forest and headed for the back side of the Zugspitze. After about seven kilometers, the road ran out, and the real hike began!
Our hike took us upward, and offered increasingly beautiful views. After about ten kilometers, we reached the Bocke Hütte. (Hüttes are small cabins that, when open, are available for hikers; i.e. shelter and food are available so one does not have to carry so much in a backpack!) It was here that we discovered that the rest of the trail was closed; it was too early in the season, and ice melt made the remainder of the trek too dangerous. (We will return to finish it!) We turned around, and within two hours, concluded our twelve mile hike. After we made our way back through the gorge, we were able to do Ginny's favorite - buy postcards!! The day ended with a quiet dinner in town.
Now I am going to brag about Ginny. She moved across the ground better than many of the soldiers that I know. This was the first hike she had done in the Alps, and her performance was exceptional! (She even did much of the hike at "double time" after discovering that it made ascending hills easier.)
The next day of our journey took us to Neuschwanstein - known everywhere as the Disney castle. (It was a creation of King Ludwig II, who died , unfortunately, prior to its completion.) We started this venture in the town of Hohenschwangau, and began a challenging hike up the Tegelberg. (A challenge neither of us expected!) We traveled endless switch backs, rising nearly 1,000 meters. Along the way, we were able to take in breathtaking views of the castles, as well as the surrounding mountains. At one point, we approached a long foot bridge; one that I refused to just stand on! (Something worth noting here - the boards on this "safe" bridge sagged when I stepped on it. Needless to say, standing around taking pictures was not wise, in my opinion!)
The trail was quite challenging, especially for Ginny. At one point, we stepped out from between two pillars, the trail took a sharp left, and in front of us, the earth disappeared into a steep canyon. Thankfully, they provided a cable (handrail of sorts) to navigate the narrow trail. Ginny was terrified, but kept moving forward. Overall, she did a great job; one that deserved a cable car ride back down the mountain! (Ginny claimed she was not a mountain climber - I beg to differ!!)
All in all, our trip to Garmisch was exciting, challenging, and most importantly, very enjoyable! We shall return!
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